Choosing the right stain for your dek can mean the difference between a great job or a do-over.

Home Inspection Insight: Should you paint, seal or stain your deck?

By Lawrence Watkins, Specsure Property Inspections

As a leading home inspection company in the Buffalo and Western New York area, we have seen our share of decks.  In the course of our home inspections, our licensed home inspectors have seen a good number that have been neglected over the years.

A deck in need of routine maintenance is not only unattractive; certain safety hazards may also be presented.  That said, it would be to your benefit to properly maintain your deck on an annual basis or as needed.  Remember, deferred maintenance is not the same as maintenance free, you simply put off the work and the cost only escalates.

And let’s face it, a new deck is not cheap; the cost can run into the thousands of dollars to build a new one.

As we perform our home inspections, we are often asked if it is better to paint or stain a deck.  The answer is: it depends.

In order of effectiveness in coating the deck material, from least to worst, we have listed your options here.  However, most effective does not necessarily mean it’s the best choice, read on:

Transparent Stain/Sealer

Transparent stains and sealers are best suited for new installations.  They allow the natural grain and appearance of the wood to show through the coating.  If you are coating a new deck and like the au naturel look, this should be your choice.

However, the durability of transparent stains/sealers (sometimes called waterproofing sealers) is the least effective and wears more rapidly than other choices.  Translation:  you will need to recoat more frequently.

Semi-Transparent Stain

A semi-transparent stain has some pigment in the medium.  The semi-transparency allows the grain of the wood to show through and therefore give a more natural look while at the same time providing some color.

Semi-transparent deck stains are more suitable to established decks where some weathering has occurred but is in otherwise decent shape.

The semi-transparent stain will be more durable than the transparent stain or sealer and consequently provide more protection to the deck.

Solid Stain

Solid colored stain is fully pigmented and is typically used on older decks where masking coverage is desired.  Limited or non-existent grain exposure will result with a solid colored stain.

The solid colored stain is the most durable of the stains, but it also will show wear in traffic areas more readily because of the pigment.

Paint

Paint is a fully pigmented film that can be applied to the deck material.  When applied properly, it will provide the best protection of the coatings listed here.  However, it also requires more prep work for initial application as well as re-application in subsequent maintenance efforts.

While each coating requires a good deck cleaning prior to application, painting also requires a primer coat and a minimum of 1, possibly 2, finish coats.  In re-application efforts, scraping and sanding of peeling or old paint finishes will be required.

Paint is not typically used for deck applications for these reasons.

Oil, Water-borne or Water-based (Latex) Stains

Once you have fully prepared your deck for a new coating and decided which stain to use, you will also need to decide if you want an oil based stain or one that is water-based or water-borne.  Water based and water borne stains are not one in the same.  Water borne stains actually possess many of the same properties held by oil based stains except clean up can be made with soap and water.

Oil based stains tend to provide the best penetration to the wood grain and therefore the greatest protection.  However, if the stain has a pigment or is a solid color, the sun tends to cause more aggressive fading.

Water borne stains are very similar to oil based stains however they dry faster and have a very short re-coat window.  Clean up can be made with soap and water.

Lawrence Watkins is a NYS Licensed Home Inspector and the President of Specsure Property Inspections.  As a leading full service residential home inspection and commercial property inspection company proudly serving Buffalo, Lewiston, Orchard Park and all of Western New York (WNY) for over 20 years, we are pleased to provide timely and simple DIY tips and hints for today’s homeowner.

For more information you can reach us at 716-881-1914 or via email at info@specsure.com.

Home Inspection Insight:  How to Get a Broken Key Out of a Lock

By Lawrence Watkins, Specsure Property Inspections

As a leading home inspection company in Buffalo and all of Western New York (WNY), we are regularly entering homes using a key left for us or held in a realtor’s lock box.  We never really know what kind of condition the lock or key is in…we just turn the key and hope for the best.

So consider this, you’re in a hurry or it’s pouring outside…you turn the key in the lock only to feel it snap.  Problem is-the key is still in the lock.  Now what?

Well, you have a couple of options:  you can call a locksmith and promote the local economy by paying a couple hundred dollars for a service call; or you can fish the key out on your own – MacGyver style.

If you chose to try it on your own, here’s how…

What kind of tools you can use:

• A piece of a coping saw blade, jigsaw blade or small hacksaw blade
• A dental or lock pick
• Spray lock lubricant or WD-40
• Needle nose pliers or nail clippers

Getting your key out of the lock

The concept is quite simple. First you want to get a strong, thin piece of metal in beside your key shaft then pull it back out of the lock. Once you’ve got the end sticking out, grab the protruding piece of the key and pull it out the rest of the way. The piece of a coping saw blade (or other thin saw blade) is good for getting the key started, since the teeth on a saw blade all point in one direction and they’ll grab the key shaft.

Step 1

First thing to do is give the lock (keyway) a quick shot of spray lubricant.  You want to make it as easy as possible for the broken key to slide out.

Step 2

Next, slide the section of saw blade into the lock or keyway alongside the broken key shaft.  Make sure the teeth are facing toward you.

You want to slide the saw blade in along beside the grooved edge of your key, not the smooth edge.  Study the key to make sure you slide it along the grooved edge otherwise this trick will not work.  On one side of the teeth the key shaft is thinner or cut back – you want to slide your saw blade in along this area. Car keys that can be inserted either side up also have a thin side on each edge of the key.

Step 3

Now, turn the saw blade slightly so the teeth grip into the grooved edge.  When it grabs, start to move the broken key shaft out of the lock.

Step 4

Once you have pulled a small portion of the broken key shaft out of the lock, grab the exposed part with needle nose pliers and pull it all the way out.

If the broken key shaft won’t budge, the lock may not be in a “neutral” position. The tumblers inside the lock are still holding onto the key shaft. If the lock isn’t in a neutral position, you can probably get it aligned by turning it with your saw blade in the lock.

Hints

• Now that you have removed the broken piece out of the lock, don’t just throw it away. If need be, a locksmith can usually make a new key from the two pieces of the old key.
• Lubricating your locks on a regular basis (use a proper lock lubricant) will make sure they turn easily.
• Hardware stores used to sell lock picks that are made with a tiny hook on the end; some may still do so.

_________________________________________________________________

Lawrence Watkins is a NYS Licensed Home Inspector and the President of Specsure Property Inspections.  As a leading full service residential home inspection and commercial property inspection company proudly serving Buffalo, Lewiston, Orchard Park and all of Western New York (WNY) for over 20 years, we are pleased to provide timely and simple DIY tips and hints for today’s homeowner.

For more information you can reach us at 716-881-1914 or via email at info@specsure.com.

Rotted wood trim discovered during a recent home inspection

Home Inspection Insight:  How to Repair Rotted Wood Trim

By Lawrence Watkins, Specsure Property Inspections

As a professional home inspector and owner of a leading home inspection company in Buffalo, NY and the surrounding Western New York (WNY) area, I have seen my share of rotted wood trim and siding material.  After all, the weather in Erie, Niagara and surrounding counties can be quite severe thereby subjecting the exterior of our homes to a beating on a regular basis.

Over the past 20+ years of performing thousands of home inspections, I have found one of the most common areas to experience wood rot is the trim and sills around windows.

Believe it or not, repairing these areas might be easier than you thought.  There are some great wood epoxies on the market today that will make repairing these rotted areas a snap.  This becomes particularly important when dealing with irreplaceable, 100 year old, ornate moldings and trim found on the Victorian houses so common in Buffalo and Western New York.

Before You Begin

Research and buy the best wood epoxy and repair material available.   It is a two step process and it is not the common wood filler often found at major home improvement centers.

And always remember, surface preparation is the absolute key to the success of your repair.  If you do not prepare the surface properly and follow all instructions by the manufacturer, your repair will likely fail.

Step 1

Start preparing the surface to be repaired by removing as much of the old paint as possible with a scraper.  I have found the 5 in 1 scraper/tool is one of the best tools for these purposes.

The reason for the paint removal is two fold, first to expose any damaged and rotted wood; second, to remove loose scaly material that will hinder bonding.

Step 2

Remove all the rotted wood.  Using a wood chisel, remove as much of the affected and damaged material as possible.  When you apply the repair material you want it to bond to a sound material, not damaged wood.

Step 3

Ensure the area to be repaired is completely free of damaged wood and debris.  If the area is large or extensive, you should consider drilling a series of 3/8-inch holes into the sound material at the repair site to help achieve a longer lasting repair and improve bonding.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, apply part 1 of the repair material – a deep penetrating consolidant to restore structural integrity to the wood fibers.  Allow it to dry.

Next, apply the repair material, in roughly the shape and form of what you want it to look like when all is done.  Apply more than necessary, so you may file, sand and shape the material to match the surrounding molding once it has cured/dried.

Step 4

Allow the repair material to fully cure, per the manufacturer’s instructions, usually overnight.  Using a coarse file or rasp, start to shape the material to match the existing, bordering material.  Then sand with a finer grit sandpaper and sanding block (where appropriate) to shape and finish.

Step 5

When you have completed the sanding and shaping process, prime, caulk and finish paint to protect against further material degrading.

Lawrence Watkins is a NYS Licensed Home Inspector and the President of Specsure Property Inspections.  As a leading full service residential home inspection and commercial property inspection company proudly serving Buffalo, Lewiston, Orchard Park and all of Western New York (WNY) for over 20 years, we are pleased to provide timely and simple DIY tips and hints for today’s homeowner.

For more information you can reach us at 716-881-1914 or via email at info@specsure.com.

Help!  What’s that floating in my whirlpool?

As a leading home inspection company in Buffalo, NY and throughout the Western New York area, our professional home inspectors have seen their share of whirlpool or jetted bathtubs.

As a part of our home inspection procedure, it is the home inspector’s job to fill the whirlpool or jetted tub with water and activate the motor to ensure it is operational.  The inspector will also check to ensure the motor is connected to a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt protected outlet and there is ready access to the motor for servicing.

More often than not, during the process of operating the jets we see a lot of crud or nasty looking black or brown stuff floating around in the water.  Not exactly a pleasant and inviting sight.  When this happens, what you are actually seeing is a fungi growth; mold and mildew bacteria from organic materials such as human skin, bath oils and soaps and other organisms allowed to germinate and grow in water left in the jets from the last time the tub was used.

Keep in mind, when a jetted tub is used, all the water does not completely drain.   An amount of water will remain in the jets and as a result may allow for this bacteria to develop into fungal growth such as mold and mildew.

Therefore, it is important to routinely clean the jets of your whirlpool bathtub, especially if it has been recently used.  There are a number of ways to accomplish this home maintenance task including using a commercially available cleaner found at many major home improvement centers, dishwasher soap (to avoid a lot of suds), regular household bleach or white vinegar.

Here’s how to do it:

1. Fill the tub with warm to hot water, to about an inch or two above the jets.
2. I prefer the least expensive and most organic method so I would add about a half of a gallon or more of white vinegar to the water.
3. Operate the whirlpool tub jets for about 15 minutes.
4. Turn the jets off and let the water sit for another 10 to 15 minutes.
5. Drain the tub
6. Re-fill with cold water and run the jets for about 5 minutes.
7. Drain and wipe down.

Not everything is suitable for a garbage disposal.

Garbage disposals: The Do’s and Don’ts

As a leading home inspection company in Western New York, we have seen our share of garbage disposals.  Some sound like a Mack truck when they are turned on and others, well, you can hardly tell they are running.

Garbage disposals are those big things under the kitchen sink; they can work tirelessly for years without a problem and we tend to take them for granted.

Like anything else around the house, they can last even longer with a little routine maintenance and by following a few simple rules.

As an experienced home inspector and committed D-I-Yer, I thought I would put some of the myths to rest and give you the straight story on the do’s and don’ts of using a garbage disposal.

Before we begin, be sure to read and follow all of the manufacturer’s directions and instructions on the installation and use of a garbage disposal.  They can be a dangerous appliance in the kitchen if not used properly and safely.  There are a variety of makes and models available, some which may claim to allow for grinding of some of the listed materials here.  For our purposes, the lists are compiled and based upon a base garbage disposal model.

Size Matters

If you are installing a new garbage disposal as a replacement or completely new installation, a ½ hp disposal is the minimum size recommended for household use, a 3/4 hp garbage disposal is better.

Cold Water Only

1. Use only cold water during operation and allow water to continue to run 30 to 60 seconds after use.  The reason for cold water is it helps keep the motor cooler during operation and avoid overheating.  Allowing the water to continue to run for 30-60 seconds after use helps ensure waste is properly flushed through the pipes.
2. Avoid using hot water during operation of the garbage disposal because the hot water tends to liquefy greases and oils that can solidify in the pipes once cooled.

Not Everything Goes in the Disposal

Contrary to popular belief you cannot put everything through the garbage disposal.  A good rule of thumb is if it is a man-made or manufactured item, then it has no business in the garbage disposal or sewage system.

The list includes:

1. Cigarette butts
2. Glass
3. Metal
4. Light bulbs
5. Twist ties, rubber bands, etc
6. Nails, screws, thumb tacks, etc.
7. Hair
8. Grease
9. Fabric, sponges, rags, etc.

Likewise, not all food items are well suited for the garbage disposal.  This list includes:

1. Fibrous foods such as celery, banana peels, artichokes, asparagus, etc.
2. Chicken bones
3. Fruit pits
4. Cooked rice and pasta
5. Coffee filters and tea bags
6. Egg shells (they turn to sand like material)
7. Onion skins
8. Shrimp shells
9. Grease

Eliminate Odors

During the course of performing our home inspections, we have been asked countless times about odors emanating from a kitchen sink and garbage disposal.  The fix is quite simple and will go a long way in keeping the disposal fresh and sharp.

Simply grind some citrus fruit peels such as a lemon, orange or lime with some ice cubes.  Some people will go as far as making vinegar ice cubes to help control the odors.  I do not believe going to that extreme is necessary.

If you introduce the citrus peels and ice cubes to your garbage disposal on a regular basis, say weekly, you will keep the odors under control.  The ice will help keep the blades sharp and scrape the interior of the disposal so food particles do not accumulate.

With proper preparation, removing a popcorn ceiling can be a breeze.

Popcorn Ceiling Removal Made Easy

Like a lot of decorating styles, the textured popcorn ceiling was popular years ago but they are no longer in vogue.  Oftentimes, during the course of a home inspection, we are asked if these popcorn ceilings can be removed.

As professional home inspectors, we are more than happy to guide our customers with hints and tidbits of information to make the home owning experience more enjoyable.

With that in mind, I thought it would be a good idea to share the few simple steps it takes to removing a textured popcorn ceiling.

Tools Needed:

1. A 6-inch putty or taping knife or 12-inch drywall taping knife.  I prefer the 6-inch knife; there is less drag and resistance when scraping the textured popcorn ceiling material.
2. Dust mask and safety glasses.
3. A ladder.
4. Lots of plastic sheeting.
5. A spray bottle similar to those that hold cleaners or a larger, hand pumped garden sprayer.

Special Note:

Before you begin, it’s important to know if the home was built prior to 1978 or more importantly if the popcorn ceiling was sprayed prior to 1978 or shortly thereafter.

The popcorn ceilings at that time may contain asbestos fibers, which is a known health hazard and carcinogen.  If you suspect that it was applied prior to 1978 or you just aren’t sure, have a sample taken and analyzed by an environmental testing lab before you begin.  If the material contains asbestos fibers, it is recommended you leave the job to a professional asbestos abatement company.

Step 1: Prep Work:

1. Remove all furniture and personal belongings from the room
2. Cover walls and floor with plastic and tape to protect those surfaces

Step 2:  Wet the Surface:

Using the garden sprayer (NOT a hose) or spray bottle wet the surface of the popcorn ceiling.  I use several passes of lightly spritzing or wetting the surface.  You don’t want to over-saturate the surface so that it damages the substrate or wallboard underneath.

Allow 15-20 minutes to soak.  The surface will turn a light, dull gray color

Step 3:  Scrape:

After sufficient time has passed, start scraping.  Be careful not to gouge the substrate material.

If you find the going tough, spray a little more water and wait a little longer, the material should scrape off fairly easily.

NOTE:  If the popcorn ceiling had been previously painted, the job just got a lot tougher.  You need to penetrate the paint coat so the texture material will absorb the water.  One trick is to knock down the texture with the edge of a saw blade or scraper and then wet the surface.

When all the textured surface material has been removed, you are done.  But, don’t be surprised if you will need to skim coat the surface with drywall compound to achieve that perfectly flat surface.

Turn on a few fans and allow the room and surfaces to dry completely before skim coating or finishing with paint.  I would roll up the plastic after all finish work has been completed.

Freshen up the look of your bathroom with new fixtures.

Over the years and thousands of home inspections later, we are still intrigued by the homes we see where just a little TLC would make a big difference in the sale of a home.

A little paint, new fixtures and lighting can go a long way in giving a room a fresh look.  Bathrooms in particular are a great place to start where just a few touches can really transform a tired room into looking fresh again.

Unfortunately, if you have a tiled bathroom wall, replacing the towel racks and tissue holders can seem a little daunting.  After all, drilling holes into ceramic tile is not the easiest thing to do and then, there’s always the risk of cracking the tile.

Here are five simple steps to beating back those fears and installing a new towel rack or tissue holder on tiled walls.

Here’s what you will need:

1. A new towel rack and tissue holder
2. A tape measure
3. A level
4. Strong tape
5. Silicone Caulk

Step 1

Position the rack at the most ideal location suitable for your needs.  Mark the wall.

Step 2

Take the tape measure and measure the length of the towel rack and mark the location of each support on the wall. Place your level against the marks to be sure they are even.

Be sure the towel rack is located exactly where you want it, ensuring both ease of use and its position is pleasing to the eye and not out of place.

Now, double check the size of the towel rack and measurements you made on the wall just to be sure you measured and marked correctly.

Step 3

Clean the area where the first support will be attached with denatured alcohol.  Next apply 100% silicone caulk on the back of the support and press into place on the wall.  Be sure to press firmly and position it properly to the marks previously made.  Secure the support in place with strong tape.

Allow it to cure a minimum of 12 hours.

Step 4

Clean the area where the second support will be attached with denatured alcohol.  Apply the 100% silicone caulk to the back the support.  BEFORE you press it into place, insert the towel bar into the first support and then into the second support.  NOW, press the support firmly against the wall according to the markings previously made.  It would also be a good idea to double-check the bar to be sure it is level at this point.  Use the strong tape to hold the support in place.

Allow to cure for at least 12 hours before removing the tape.

Step 5

Finish with removal of the tape and application of a thin bead of caulk around the perimeter of each support base where they touch the wall.  Smooth the caulk out with a wet finger of damp cloth.  Again, allow it to cure for at least 12 hours and you’re good to go!!

CO detectors should be replaced per the manufacturer's recommendations or every 5 years, whichever comes first.

It’s that time of year, when our heating systems and fireplaces have been getting a pretty good work out.  And it’s all the more reason to be ever vigilant for the silent killer – Carbon Monoxide (CO)!  It’s the odorless, tasteless and invisible by-product of combustion that poisons hundreds of people each year.

That said, installation of carbon monoxide detectors and their placement are very important. First and foremost, all of the manufacturer’s instructions and those of the Building and Fire Code established by the state and/or municipality within which you reside should be followed.

To summarize, here are a few guidelines to follow when installing a CO detector:

1. A CO alarm should be placed on every level in the home where a CO source exists, such as cooking appliances, fireplaces or other fossil fuel burning appliances.
2. A CO alarm should not be placed within 15 feet of fossil fuel burning appliances.
3. A CO alarm should be placed within 15 feet of a sleeping area.  No sleeping area or unit should be more than 15 feet away from a CO alarm or detector.  In other words, you may need to install more than 1 CO alarm on a floor level to ensure proper coverage for each sleeping area.
4. A CO alarm should be placed in the living area directly above an attached garage.
5. A CO alarm should be placed in the hallway leading to an attached garage.
6. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for placement, keeping in mind installation high on a wall or ceiling area is often an ideal placement location.  Try to keep at least 5-10 feet away from kitchen appliances and bathrooms.
7. In New York State, for homes constructed after 1/1/2008 each sleeping unit should have a CO alarm.
   1. They should be hardwired (not the plug-in style) to the home’s electrical source with a battery back-up.
   2. They should be interconnected so that when 1 alarm sounds, they all sound.

There is nothing more irritating than working hard at a painting project only to find the walls full of roller marks.  Don’t despair, there is a way to avoid them and with a little practice, it will all become second nature.

Follow some simple tips and you can have a professional looking paint job each and every time.

To ensure a smart looking paint job, follow these simple steps:

1. First and foremost, make sure you are using the right tools for the job.  If you buy the cheapest roller at the store, chances are the results will show it!
2. Ask the sales clerk which nap is best for the surface you are painting.   A heavier nap then needed will result in too much paint being applied to the wall while a nap that is too small will result in not enough.  Size matters.
3. Use a quality roller cover to ensure adequate film thickness is applied and the uniformity of the finish.
4. High quality paints tend to roll on more evenly due to their higher solids content and leveling properties.
5. Take some masking tape and with the sticky side apply it to the nap of the roller to remove any loose fuzzies.
6. Moisten (NOT saturate) roller covers used with latex paint and shake out all excess water.
7. Use a quality roller frame, not one with removable end caps that may mark walls.
8. Apply even pressure and don’t let paint build up at the ends of the roller. When working the paint onto the roller in the pan, it’s a good idea to run the edges of the roller in the drain portion of the pan to remove excess.
9. Begin rolling at one end of the wall near the ceiling and work down the wall in 3 or 4 foot square sections.  But don’t get so close to the ceiling that you cannot roll out the paint for an even finish.
10. Spread paint on in a zigzag “M” or “W” pattern, beginning with an upward stroke to minimize spatter
11. Without lifting the roller from the surface fill in the zigzag pattern with even parallel strokes.
12. Don’t get silly and paint your initials onto the wall, thinking you will just paint over them.  Oftentimes, you will still be able to see the ghost of your handiwork even after the paint has dried.
13. Stand back or to the side of your work and view it to be sure you have not missed any spots or developed roller marks.  If you see imperfections, roll them out while the paint is still wet.

Selling a house can feel like a balancing act.

Home Inspections are no longer just for the buyer … if you are selling your house you should really think about a pre-listing home inspection.

Read more to see what savvy sellers all across the country are doing and why to get every edge in selling their home.

Read More…